Required Reading
Homeowners, Builders & Subcontractors:The costs of prep work rises dramatically if you or your contractor has not protected your slab during construction.
My clients must print this list and sign it prior to my beginning their floor.
- The finished floor is a direct result of its being free of any foreign substances. Cover and protect your slab from sub-contractor activity. Your floor's condition is a result of your sub-contractors being specifically instructed "Do not spill pipe adhesives, solvents, paints or varnishes, as the slab is the finished floor!" The floors should be clean and the rooms empty with absolutely nothing on the floors prior to the arrival of the crew. Our fees do not include removing the paper, moving furniture, tools, equipment, fixtures, building materials or otherwise. There should be no other trades on the floors or scheduled at the same time, unless they are working on the exterior only.
- Staining is a very wet process. We use quick release tapes to protect your baseboard trim and to hold our paper against your walls for stain protection. However, we are not liable for paint peel-offs or stained trim.
- All stains on floor, chips in concrete or cracks will still be evident after work in completed. Any patches in concrete will also be visible. Remember, we are making the floor look "aged." Defects are acceptable.
- Owners, builders and contractors are solely responsible for the condition of floor prior to our commencing work. No liability on our part in implied or accepted. I insist they each take responsibility for your floor.
- Of special mention, masking tapes will remove the wax sealer and/or stain. If your painters have laid down masking tape along baseboards, it requires additional stain to diffuse the stripe. It may not totally hide it, but an additional charge of $25 per room is assessed. It is extremely important that you do not tape to the floor. When covering the floor, overlap sheets of builder's paper from Home Depot. Tape the first sheet of paper to the wall. Then overlap the second sheet over the first and tape the paper to the paper. DO NOT TAPE TO THE FLOOR. Duct tape, masking tape, packaging tape, strap tape, blue tape, green tape and electrical tape—there are no exceptions. The tape alters the natural curing process and transfers chemicals to and from the slab. THIS WILL SHOW in the finished product. If you intend to use 24 hour tape for less than 24 hours, please call first to discuss the situation.
- Glues & adhesives left on slab will block stain, even after their removal. cover your slab to prevent this. When covering the floor, you may use sheets of masonite or single face cardboard on top of the builder's paper. However, do not cover the slab with plastic at any time. It does not allow the slab to breathe, which inhibits proper curing and can result in efflorescence. Prevent excessive vapor transmission.
- The finished floor must be kept vacuumed to prevent dirt from acting as an abrasive and thus dulling the shine. Use a small amount of Mop & Glo to clean. It will bring out the luster once again. Apply as needed! Commercial liquid wax products are available if you want a professional shine.
- Floor surface can be marked by heavy furniture or metal objects. Take a little care!
- After inspection of finished floor, it is the complete responsibility of owners, builders and/or general contractors to protect the stained and sealed floor until occupancy has been completed. CAUTION: The polishing process creates fine dust on your floor. You must wet mop prior to occupancy!
- There must be two 110 volt outlets on two separate 20 amp breakers not more than 150 feet from the furthest point of the slab available to our crew alone. Additionally, running water and trash receptacles must be available.
- We make every effort to provide beautiful and cost effective floors. Our prices do not include excessive cleaning, samples, post construction cleaning, protective covering or any other service not itemized in the proposal. Our prices are based upon actual square footage. Just as the architect and appraiser measures, so do we—wall to wall! We do not credit for cabinets, built-ins, etc. This is industry standard.
- Touch ups are often needed and should be expected following stain, seal and/or wax work. Schedule the touch up painters after our work is completely finished.
- Acid stains are chemically reactive metallic salts which seek out and react with the lime in the concrete. As such, they can be manipulated but not controlled and anticipated but not guaranteed. Our color chart shows typical color reactions. However, every slab is different. Every pour of concrete will react independently to the stains. All elements and circumstances affect the outcome of the floors. Temperature, humidity, age of concrete, batch of stain, batch mix design of concrete, accelerators, fly ash, wind, instructions listed herein and the like all contribute to the outcome of the floors. Exact colors and stain patterns cannot be achieved. It is fundamental that all parties involved understand this.
- To insure proper scheduling, please contact us at least 3 weeks in advance. We work diligently to accommodate many schedules. Please assist us by communicating your project status as well as any questions or concerns you may have. We are committed to the outcome of the floors. We appreciate that you are too.
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Some common contractor practices that cannot be corrected:
- Plumbers dropping pipe solvent on the floor - it's clear and will only show after stain is applied - no recourse!
- Carpenters like to snap lines for walls with red oxide chalk - make them switch to blue chalk dust - red is permanent.
- Painters spray cabinets with varnish - overspray does not allow stain to penetrate concrete surface.
- Electricians use spray paint to designate outlets along base of walls on my floor - these marks do not readily come up.
- Marks-A-Lot on the floor is a no-no!
- Sheetrock contractors are quite messy. Make them cover the floor to catch their mud. Contractors - curing agents block the stains' penetration - DO NOT USE on areas to be stained.
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Remodel Projects - Homeowners that want to remove old carpet and/or tile and then stain:
Big word of caution here! Underneath your current floor covering is a whole host of potential problems
that may prevent your floor from being stained:
- Removing Old Carpet - tack strips around the walls cause divots in the surface when removed - either be willing to endure them or if you patch, it will always be evident. Choose your preference.
- Glues and Adhesives - must be removed prior to staining. Here's some means to get it clean. Purchase a 4" inch razor edge tile bar from hardware store. Locate a product called "Sunshine Tile Adhesive Remover, (True Value Hardware carries it). It's a messy, labor intensive job you sure better want to stain your floor to go through this process. Prep work is NOT a service I provide.
- Paint Overspray along baseboards (usually oil-base) this is a project stopper!
- Terrazzo Tile - to remove generally damages the float service of the concrete beneath. I do not recommend proceeding with the staining process in this situation.
- Very Old Residences (30 + years) - The stain reacts to the minerals in the float coat of the floor. Old concrete has leeched most of these salts from the surface over time and thus the colors are quite muted. Do not expect the vibrancy to be achieved that is shown in my color chart.
- Exteriors - Porches, sidewalks, and pool surrounds are all stain possibilities. However, due to the rougher surfaces the finished appearance has more of a sandstone look than "aged marble.” Colors vary widely on these surfaces. Concrete pours at different time frames will result in varying colors especially add-on slabs to older homes.
- Overlays on Existing Slabs - This could be an answer to particularly poor concrete surfaces. However, these overlays cannot be floated as smooth as normal concrete slabs. This prevents the "naturally aged marble" effect and leaves an effect of exterior concrete.