Site Specifications

CID Staining Slabs – Specification and Application Tips

General

Do Not Acid Etch or Acid Wash Before Applying Stain

It is always recommended that a small out-of-the way section of your project be tested to see if the desired reaction occurs. If it does not, you probably have surface contaminants on your slab.
A new concrete slab must have cured for six (6) weeks. The optimum times to stain in a new home are after all construction (taping, bedding, texturing and painting) is completed and just prior to the base boards being affixed.

We recommend that you protect your new slab during the construction phase with plastic, paper, cardboard, plywood or sheet rock covering as the initial cleaning step will be much easier.

*All laborers should be advised that the slab will be the finished floor.

If scoring (giving the impression of stone or tiles) is desired, we suggest that it be done just prior to staining and at least 30 days after the slab is poured. We also suggest that the scoring groove be no deeper than 1/8 inch. Deeper grooves will collect dirt.

Step 1 – Wash
Wash the concrete surface—it must be clean and free of paints, wax, grease, dirt and other surface contaminants. Do NOT acid wash or use heavy alkali cleaners. Tri sodium phosphate (TSP) is an excellent mild all purpose cleaner and is available at hardware or janitorial supply stores.

When mixed with water the TSP can be used to clean the slab by scrubbing with a log handled stiff brush. Then wet vacuum (preferred) or mop (several moppings may be necessary) to remove all dirt. After washing, allow the floor to dry completely. Protect all walls with tape and paper. Do not allow the stain to touch any wood or metal.

Step 2 – Stain (First application)
Generally you will mix equal parts stain with equal parts water (50% - 50%). You can apply the mixture with a brush, mop or sponge; however, we suggest that you consider using an all-plastic garden (insecticide) pump-up sprayer. The sprayer allows you to control volume much easier and remember that VOLUME EQUALS DEPTH OF COLOR.

Make sure all container lids are tight and shake vigorously before using. Put the water part in the spray container, than add equal parts stain. Close the lid, pump up the pressure and begin randomly spraying the mixture on the floor by holding the nozzle of the wand approximately 18 inches from the floor. Try to avoid precise back and forth motions. You should apply the mixture leaving full moisture and short of puddles.

Try not to leave puddles as puddle edges hold more moisture (volume equals depth of color). As you apply the stain there may be varying degrees of fizzing and there will not be a lot of color. Let the floor dry completely.
Drying Time will depend on porosity, temperature, humidity and volume, but it generally takes several hours. Do not walk on the floor while it is wet or damp. Do not remove the residue that is left from the chemical reaction.

Using the same procedure as mentioned above, apply the second application. Again allow the floor to dry completely. You will notice darker tones of color appearing at this time.

Step 3 – Wash
After the floor has completely dried, scrub off the residue with a long handled, medium stiff, bristly brush and water only. Remove the water/residue mixture from the floor by mop, squeegee or (preferably) a wet vacuum. Allow the floor to dry completely.

Step 4 – Wax Sealer for A Natural Finish – Interior Only

1. Kemiko Wax is best applied with a heavy floor machine and two attachments: a red buff pad and a white buffing pad.

   To begin, spread a smooth light coating of wax out from the walls (2-3 inches) and corners out to the radius of the attachment. Put not more than one-third (1/3) cup of wax on the floor in the center of the first 3 – 4 foot square. It will appear wet and dull. Immediately work the wax by spreading and burning it in with the red pad attachment. Move to the next 3 – 4 foot quadrant and repeat the step only after the wax in the preceding area has turned to a slight glare and wax ridges disappear. Mineral spirits will soften any ridges or excess wax allowing it to be spread and worked in.When you have completed the application phase, change to the clean red pad attachment and buff the entire floor including your original hand waxed areas. After the buffing, repeat the first phase applying a thin second coat. Then rebuff. Buff again with the soft white pad.

2. Solvent Based Sealers Can Provide A Glossy look. Interiors or Exteriors

   Apply by roller or brush, thin first coast, allow 4 hours to dry then recoat a thin second coat. Concrete is a porous material and is susceptible to discoloration. DO NOT WRITE ON THE SLAB WITH ANYTHING OTHER THAN A PENCIL. Metal objects will rust (nails). Also, beverages, grease, food, adhesive, caulk, poly seal, paint, solder, oils, flux, wax pencils and permanent markers will modify the stain. Press board, and other forms of lumber, as well as items such as insulation and plastic will modify the moisture content of the concrete, creating a shift in color. Resins from the wood will also stain.

   Warn everyone that the floor will be stained. Do it verbally. Do it often. Signs don't work!

   Finish work is a critical time. Paints can bond with the sealer on the concrete floor. It's a nasty and expensive job to repair. Areas of the floor that are stained must be completely protected. Use Masonite or hard board (4 X 8 sheets) to protect it. Overlap the edges. DO NOT TAPE TO THE FLOOR. Keep adhesives in the tape strip and the sealer off the floor. Painters can use 24-hour tape and craft paper along the edges, and protect the field with drop cloths. TAPE MUST BE PICKED UP AFTER A DAY! Call us if you have more questions!

   Application Procedure
   With new construction, we generally come in right before baseboards. Scoring can be done just prior to staining. Borders can be cut to mirror the path of the walls of the house. It tends to give the floors a more finished look. If this is what you choose, the scoring can be done at the same time of the staining (my choice always)!

   We need to have electricity and clean water to complete the process. Usually, we score first, then clean and prep the floor for staining (the biggest part), then stain. The final step is the sealing process. Most houses take 4-5 days depending on drying time, sometimes less.
   Floors need to be covered after staining and sealing to protect it during the final stages of construction. Call us for recommendations.

   Existing Concrete
   Existing concrete that has been covered with tile or carpet is problematic. Adhesives used to hold these coverings on often prevent the stains from penetrating evenly. Carpet tacking leaves divots that need to be patched. These types of projects are bid individually and are most costly. Exterior concrete, patios, walkways, pool surrounds, garages and driveways are stainable. Solvent-based sealers must be used, due to moisture possibility.

   Sealer – Interiors
   For the majority of our projects, we use the manufacturer recommended wax sealers. The wax hardens with time and is most durable for the toughest households. Often a popular choice for vacation homes, these sealers provide what we call a semi-gloss finish and are easy to care for. For glossy finishes we use solvent based sealers.

   Important Information
   For those of you that have decided to use the concrete staining process there is important information that you, the builder and the other sub contractors should know. Most of this material applies to new construction, and coordinating the project in such a way to minimize damage to the concrete floor before and after the staining and sealing process. Prior to pouring your concrete slab, contact us so that we can send you important technical information. We send information to:

   The Concrete subcontractor (the most important)
   The Owner and/or Builder
   The Framers and other subcontractors.

   Basically, treat the concrete floor as if it were an unstained wood floor. Anything that could or would discolor, bleach or stain a wood floor could affect a concrete floor. Note: We do not pour the concrete slab!